Political Breakfast

           Saturday night at the Hickison Petroglyphs BLM Campground was a interesting ride. After enjoying a shady late afternoon in our chairs outside the trailer, catching up on the news (thank you Verison hotspot) and writing in our blog; the weather completely changed. It started with a little rise in the wind, then moved into higher gusts.

Valley below our camp before the wind arose and it filled with dust clouds.

Our camp oversaw a long valley which soon started to fill with dust and, it appeared, a wall of a dust storm was moving toward us. The particles in the air began it settle on our faces and it became time to pick up and move indoors. We shut up all the windows and  vents and, with a little prayer, were glad it was not hot. Running the air conditioner was not an option since this was a dry camp with no utilities. Our generator or solar does not have enough power for an energy guzzling air conditioner.  We felt snug and safe from the wind that continued to gust strongly and blow the dust all night. The morning, though, felt clear and calm though the dust remained in the long view over the valley below us.

International Cafe and Bar in Austin, Nevada

          Sunday morning we decided to hook up and go the 30 miles or so into Austin, Nevada and have breakfast at the International Cafe and Bar. We had read comments that some were put off by the big Trump Will Make American Great Again posters, the hippies use the backdoor sign, and various other signs indicating the politics of the proprietor. He had also been described as a curt grumpy old guy. This sounded like a GREAT place to have breakfast with a bit of spice!
          The cafe was in the middle of town, with a broken down weathered wagon in front and a porch with big, uneven, thick slabs of rough hewn boards as the floor. The building it turned out had been originally build in the late 1800's when Austin was a mining town. The building was divided into a open cafe with an old plank floor with a wall that divided it from the equally large bar on the other side.

Beautiful bar in the International Cafe. Jim looks like he is getting an early start. 

The bar had been built in England in 1840s and came around the horn for a bar in Virginia City. When mining slowed in Virginia City, the massive bar and back wall were dismantled and brought over the many high passes with mules and wagons. It is truly a beauty to behold and a surprise to find in this little town that once was a high flying mining town in the mountains. The jewel in this crown were the people, from the grumpy bartender ready for business at 9:30 in the morning, to the group of older men discussing the events of the last week i.e. sniper shooting of police in Dallas and the Black Lives Matter movement response to the shootings of two black men at routine police interactions. We were served a huge breakfast of toast, great hash browns, eggs and large sausage patty and bacon for Jim. The grey haired ponytailed owner of the cafe was both host and server for ourselves and about 10 other people in the small cafe. At the end of the meal, he came to sit at our table and ask us where we were from. We told him about our swing through upper and middle states. After a few pleasantries, I led in with the fact that his signs would indicate that he was a Trump supporter. I asked him what his thoughts may be about the possible attempt to derail Trump's nomination at the Republican convention. He began to talk about Trump being misrepresented by the press, that Trump's acts of generosity are either overlooked or he is so humble that he doesn't talk about it. Trump, he said, has been such a great businessman, our pony tailed owner believes, that it is his expertise as a business person that the U.S. desperately needs in the White House.

We thought the bartender may be the Serbian. 

        It seemed that our Trump supporter did not see himself as part of the Republican Party and, in fact, spoke about them as being the "establishment" that needs to be dismantled by the likes of Trump. It was a good conversation, very reasonable in tone. He commented that he was happy to have someone listen to him that some people just call him crazy and walk away. We did not disclose our leanings but he gave us a window into why Trump supporters seem immune to the facts and history on their candidate. Once the press is labeled as untrustworthy unless you care to do your own digging for information, you or at this least this Trump supporter or reliant only on what their candidate tells them. This is going to be one interesting election season.  

In the early morning light, a wagon restored by Don and a sculpture by Patty.

 
          By 4 o'clock we reached our destination at Don and Patty's in Smith Valley. Always enjoy our
visit with these good friends. They are both artists and live in harmony with the desert that surrounds
 their home. Except for some lawn which mainly serves as fodder for the cottontails and jack rabbits that come to visit and eat their morning carrots, native plants are the backdrop for the wonderful views. Found metal and wood provide the bones for the metal figures who dot their natural landscape and pay homage to natures spirit. Quail, lizards and the birds of the high desert seem to know they can find food, water and shelter at Don and Patty's natural space. Their home is full of beautiful pieces of art they have created using basketry, gourds. weaving, bead work and found objects.

Remains of a structure at the mining location near Rafter Seven Ranch. 

On Sunday we drove out to the Rafter Seven which is about an hour from their home and down 20 miles of pretty tough dirt road. Patty and Don have been irrigating the permanent pasture for family stock and going out to the ranch several days a weeks for the last few months. The ranch was started originally in the 1870's but is now owned by a Water Conservancy.

This was such a delicately carved stone for a young boy lovingly missed. Rose is tired after our hike to the top of the hill in hot sand. 

The monument has a guard against the cattle in the area. 

Nearby was the remains of a small mining settlement and the grave marker delicately carved of a boy who only lived 5 years. The grave stone gives his birth date not his date of death. Patty found his name and history on line.
       It is such a peaceful place to catch up with each other and to begin to end a great trip that has taught us much and help us know that there are so many places to explore, enjoy and learn about in this good old U.S.
       As I write this today, we are coming up on the Eastern Sierras and hope to be home by 4:00 pm. The unloading will start and there will be two months of mail to sort through. That is good too. One must go back to base to begin to understand, with some deliberation, what we have learned through this experience we feel so honored to have undertaken.

Open Spaces

         Saturday night at Hickson Petroglyphs 24 miles east of Austin, Nevada elevation 6500 feet and we have no neighbors in our BLM campground. This is a dry camp bring your own water but staggering views of the valley below us and a walk to view the petroglyphs.

Trust me, petroglyphs here but hard to see!

The reason, we think, we have no neighbors is that it took us nearly 2 hours to get our trailer level. Since this is a BLM campground it has been directly impacted by sequestration and it appears that no grading of the sites has been done in several years. Let me guess since the Republicans took control of the House and Senate. So we had to work and work and eventually dig to get level but finally managed and we have been rewarded in our last night at a campsite after our weeks on the road. Tomorrow we will be at our Don and Patty's in Wellington, Nevada until Wednesday when we make our way home. Do recommend this great site at Hickson, just bring water and maybe a shovel and a beautiful home is yours for the night.

Borders Inn

        Yesterday, Friday, was a transect from the bluffs of Utah to the Great Basin area of Nevada with a stop last night at the Border Inn, which has it's famous showers in Utah and it's casino and bar in Nevada. We had driven 83 miles from Delta, Utah with no services, none. We encountered bike riders 20 miles out with 63 miles to go on this desolate but scenic road. At the end of the 83 miles was Border Inn. It first built when highway 50 was built and a log cabin from Lehman Caves in Great Basin National Park was moved down to become the Inn. The RV park is wind swept and includes some permanent trailers. We settled in and turned on the air conditioner for Rose and went over for a beer at the Border Inn.

View from the petroglyph walk Hickson BLM

We ordered at cold one and had a chance to talk to Denys Koyle the owner of the Inn. We mentioned the bike rider and she said they often get riders on Highway 50. She has taken gallons of water and dropped them for the riders at agreed mile posts for them. She also mentioned the TransAmerica trail that is a dirt road often taken by trail bike riders who come by the Border Inn and restock and shower. The trail we found out is 3743 miles across the US from Astoria, Oregon
to the East Coast. One of the routes goes through Baker City or the Border Inn.
      The Inn has been enlarged over time and has motel rooms in Utah on Mountain time and the restaurant, bar and small casino is on Pacific time. The halls of the Inn has pictures with names of all the local residents and many, we noticed were shepherds. Border Inn, we found out, is beholden to the many shepherds who have come in for a shower (free and clean) and beer and a good meal. It appears to be a community gathering place. The evening we were there they were holding a wake for a local person who had been a "regular." There were at least 40 cars that appeared that evening. We had breakfast there in the morning and the young woman serving us said the man who died "lived up the mountain, did"t say much, looked kind of mean, but was listened to when he spoke, and was really a very gentle person, cared for by many." Jim googled the Inn tonight and found that for the last 14 years and scheduled for this January 20th and 21th is the Sheepherders Ball which welcomes all involved in the sheep industry. The Borders Inn acknowledges that the sheepherders who often come in during the winter months have enabled them to stay in business. Another joy, at finding the Borders Inn was the older gentleman who was at the bar with us in the afternoon telling about people history in this place, and again at breakfast. The Borders is truly a place for community in a very open space. Made me wonder, how many other little unassuming little cafes in out of the way places may also have a long history and connection for the people who live there.

Designs from Native Peoples deepened by erosion on the sandstone

Capitol Reef Reflections

       

View from Thousand Lakes RV Park in the valley outside of Capitol Reef

Thursday, July 7, 2016, this is our second full day at the Thousand Lakes RV Park in Torrey, Utah only a few miles from Capitol Reef National Park. Yesterday, we left Rose in the care of the daughter of Park owner/employee? and spent the day exploring Capitol Reef. We heard a ranger talk at 10:00 on the geology of the park. It is a unique park for geology as it features the Waterpocket Fold which is a 100 mile wrinkle in the earth’s crust caused by the shifting two plates. One of the plates pushed under the other folding, bending and pushing upward on what were flat deposits from many ancient geological times. The result, after water erosion, is a multicolored amazing landscape.

Morning Light on the Cliffs Near our Camp

Layers Representing Dunes, Ocean Bottoms and Swamps. This Formation is called the Castle. 

The Fremont peoples lived here for centuries cultivating and hunting followed by the Mormons who settled Fruta along the Fremont River in a slender river bottom that has soil that would support the fruit trees and vegetables they grew. They were such an isolated community that electricity did not get to them until after World War II. Both cultures are represented in the Park. We listened to a ranger talk on the Fremont people near the petroglyph cliffs. Since the huge sandstone cliffs sheet off over time, some of the petroglyphs have been lost to us but some have survived for us to appreciate.  Torrey, about 11 miles from the Park Visitor Center, is a much wider valley with cultivation of alfalfa and a gardens. I took so many pictures of this landscape but the sheer massive cliffs that rise up above are very difficult to capture. In Torrey, it was about 80 degrees with a wind but in the park it was more than 10 degrees warmer.

      Today, we are catching our collective breath. It felt today like a time to reflect on the 7 weeks we have been on the road and what we have seen and experienced. One of my first thoughts was that the U.S. is made up of so many different landscapes, environment and histories. Since Jim and I have a  fascination for history and politics, we hope that what we have seen and experienced will give us more understanding of people’s positions in the upcoming election. Or Not! I guess the bottom line for me, at least, is that we have lots of beautiful space which may not grow potatoes or sustain many people but is crucial to who we are as a nation and to our spirituality. Too not continue to protect it would be more that a mere shame. Guess my politics are showing. Every state has had unique characteristics that seem to remain. Wisconsin has supper clubs. Kansas fields that go on forever dotted with the stock yards that fatten the steers that show up on plates all over the US. Michigan is full of lakes and greenness and mosquitos. Illinois glory in its verdant flatness and reflects its history as a free state. North Dakota has a feeling of space being claimed by few people. Montana is truly a big sky state where the air is clear and mountains high. 

Cottonwood Tree in Fruta, a sapling when the Mormons first came to settle, served as their postoffice. All the mail was dropped off in a box attached to it for many years. It still lives. 

Close up of door and window of cabin that housed one of the first Mormon families. this who had 13 children, 11 who survived. They lived in the one room cabin for a year before moving to the larger Fruta and building another house. In a larger house, in Fruta, lived the only polygamist family in the community. 

      This entry has been written over the day. The electricity went out about noon for the whole park as well as the town of Torrey. Jim went down to get gas and had to do on to the next town for pumps that work. We had no air conditioning, poor us, so spent the afternoon outside, planning the next six months and beyond. Tonight I am including some pictures of the inside of our abode. We are having a Creole steak, peppers and onions which is cooking outside in the electric pressure cooker. Inside sautéed potatoes with bacon are cooking. We have eaten very well, too well. Lunch is always wraps and, sometimes, coleslaw or chips.  Food seems to become more important while on the road. 

Sautéed Potatoes with a bit of bacon, calories don't count on the road. Creole steak strips with peppers and onions cooking in electric pressure cooker outside. We have an outside electric plug. Love this kitchen.

Rose holding court on the bed. All in all pretty comfortable place to hang out. Thanks Escape trailers, we have gone nearly 7000 miles and our rig is doing well. Notice the clutter of electronics and the bag for my art stuff. The table on the wall folds down at night but holds our coffee in the morning. 

     With our stops in RV parks we have met several people, tonight included, who are part of family reunions which happen annually. Tonight met a woman from Utah who is part of a 4 day family reunion. They meet at a different place each year usually an RV park close to interesting sights. Some are staying in cabins, some in tents and some in RVs. A different family does one meal each night. She said that two RV’s had blow outs on the way here. They have some families coming from Nevada. I can imagine this is a fun time for them and good way to connect. We have seen this in our travels where friends and family meet and enjoy time together. This has been a ramble today. I guess coming to the end of a trip is cause for some reflection. There is much beauty in the US, sometimes not where you might expect it. Be well all. 

Stone Bridges

Great blend of the scientific and the fun to make the point that what we know of the appearance of dinosaurs has changed over time as we find mummified or fossilized specimens that show feathers or skin texture. The movie posters are tied to time periods and countries and show how we played with the forms of these "monsters" to create good horror movies starting with Lost World and King Kong. 

    Tuesday evening, 7/5/16, we have settled into an RV Park at Torrey, Utah after one of the most beautiful drives across many different geological types. We started this morning from Durango and climbed through the Rockies on Highway 160. We crossed a pass at 10,200 feet as well as several that were a mere 8,000 feet. The weather was absolutely clear and the views spectacular. We stayed on 160 until Blanding in Utah where we picked up 95, the Bicentennial Highway. We had checked with several sources and heard that it was a good road but it had not been what Garmin had indicated for our drive to Capitol Reef National Park. It was designated a Utah scenic drive and it held up to it's billing. The geological strata with the remains of sand dunes millions of years old and cemented into stone showing the curves of the wind and wearing of water were as amazing as some we saw later in the Capitol Reef Park drive. The road made us pay attention during the drive with steep climbs and some 10% grades as well as lots of 8-6% grades also but well worth the work to drive the road. We are looking forward to spending a couple of days exploring this area.

The feathered flightless dinosaur has found this grey headed morsel. Actually this museum featured several fossils that have recently come to light about feathered dinosaurs that either preceded or followed flighted dinosaurs or birds as we know them. The posters in the back are part of the amazing collection. 

      We stopped off during our drive today to enjoy the Dinosaur Museum in Blanding. It was very well done with fossils displayed as well as some fossilized huge trees from a very early geological period. They have several of these specimens that can be seen no where else. Aside from the large exhibits of fossils, restoration, and full size reproductions, this museum has a huge collection of movie posters from all over the world featuring the cinematic representations of dinosaurs.

If you look where the trees are the thickest you can see the arch cut. The sandstone retains that ripples that were once great oceans that are revealed by the erosion of the water of flash floods and streams at Natural Bridges National Park. It was 92 degrees so couldn't leave Rose in the car and since dogs are not allowed on the trails down to the arch, we were saved from the 500 feet elevation change in .4 miles. Some of the other climbs down and up included ladders and rock "steps." 

      An additional stop was at the Natural Bridges National Park. We listened to a presentation about the reptiles in the park as took the drive through the park to see the overlooks of these bridges created by the meandering rivers cutting through and sculpting the stone. The colors of the different stone and the depth of the river cuts create small Grand Canyons.

Glen Canyon behind the dam for the Colorado River, the river is so low it is almost not flowing. Colorado and Utah are needing more rain as this drought goes on. 

Fourth of July Weekend in Colorado

        Durango, no rain on Sunday 7/3, so we took a long stroll on the Animas Trail that winds along the Animas River from the Durango Community Recreation Center.  There were so many people walking dogs, riding bikes and just strolling with their kids. We found the Trail but looking up the local Volksport Walk and started out on the 5 K. The trail took us by the Fish Hatchery, a new library which faces the river with balconies and chairs to sit in and read while over looking the Animas. The river was alive with rafts, kayaks and canoes filled with determined paddlers. The current is fast and there are just enough rapids to make it fun. The river is crossed by several pedestrian bridges and fronted by, not only the trail but parks along the way. Deer graze along the way with only a little concern for the humans. We spotted the Animas Brewery along our route a couple of miles out and decided to return to this dog friendly place when we finished the walk. This brewery placement is brilliant. It is right along the trail and bikers and walkers filled the place. You can tie your puppy just outside the patio fence and then stop for lunch and fresh draft. So since we are also researching the quality of the Durango craft beer scene, we were impelled to check it out. Fun place, dogs and bikes surround the place, everyone mellow including the pets that are provided with shade and water.

Jim doing a scientific comparison of Durango brews at Animas Brewery. He is checking out their  Amber in this shot. Bikes were leaned on posts that surround this outside patio. This brewery had a most wonderful location, right off the long River Walk. 

On one of the posts to the patio next to us, someone had created a very detailed lego construction that went around the pole. There was also one outside near the bike rack. I got a picture of that one. We decided that finding the Volksport Walk for cities we visit is just a wonderful way to not only get exercise but see the detail of a place. This one includes the trail, a walk through the historical downtown and back around to the Recreation Center. 

       Saturday, we had great plans to board Rose and spend the day touring Mesa Verde. We were up and out early, left Rose off for daycare and headed to the Park. We thought others would be doing Fourth of July weekend stuff but no, the park was overwhelmed with persons like us known as tourists. By the time we arrived, all the tour tickets for the day had been sold. We enjoyed the Center, and got to see a Hopi Dance group perform the Deer Dance.  Jim got some good video. (too many megs to post) This Hopi family comes from their reservation in Arizona once a year to perform at Mesa Verde. After spending some time at the Park, we decided we will return at a better time and made our way back to Durango. Had lunch at Carver’s Brewery on Main Street which is one of the oldest and best regarded breweries in Durango. The locals, who had tasted all, gave us recommendations as we waited to get in. Saturday gave us some good thunderstorms and heavy rain for periods of time. It was beautiful and warm in between. 

     Durango seems to be peopled by many younger people involved in the dirt biking, rafting, kayaking and hiking. It reminded us a bit of Moab, Utah but Durango is also a place with much urban planning it seems. The infrastructure with trails and areas built for walking reminded me some of Portland but without the public transportation. We met a couple from Southern California on the trail who became nomads 15 years ago after they sold their house. They lived in a big RV for several years and now rent vacation homes for 3 months at time in different places. They return to Durango each year now. They said Durango also houses summer nomads from different states for it’s many summer activities. 

       Fourth of July dawned with clear skies so decided on a trip to Silverton about an hours drive from Durango. The narrow gauge trail runs from Durango to Silverton and back through the Animas River Gorge. It was the choice, on hind sight, would have been better taken instead of Mesa Verde on Saturday. So, we drove to Silverton and saw beautiful views and high mountain passes.

Mounts of the Women's Precision Riding Drill Team of Durango,  Decorated for the Parade, Note the Harleys Preferred Bike of Colorado. Silverton Hosts the Highest Harley Davidson Shop in the World

Our Geology of Colorado came in handy as the geologic layers of rock date to very early geologic eras. Silverton was busy with celebrating people and many dogs. Many of the puppies were as decked out for the 4th as there people. The town which produced both silver and gold from nearby mining is at 9400 feet and is accessed through Coal Bank pass at 10, 290 feet. The train has been the main connection to Durango almost from the beginning. Main Street is paved but other roads in town are not. It has many restaurants, breweries and stores for the tourists which come by train and car to visit. We walked with the crowds, ate pastries, and visited with Coloradans who live about an hour away but come up to camp at Sliverton for a week every 4th of July. The whole area from Durango up to Silverton is a big ski area in the winter. 

Lego Sculpture on Sign Post at Animas Brewery Next to Bike Rack

     

Lovely sculpture in front of a Durango City office dedicated to the Search and Rescue Dogs of 9/11. 

Durango Rain

Tonight, Friday, it is raining in Durango, Colorado. It has been raining since early this morning with an overcast sky in place all day. It seemed a very good day to see what we could see in this go to place. We had arrived on the day before after only a 200 mile drive our stay at the Great Sand Dunes but it was a challenging 200 as we had to top the Continental Divide. The pass we crossed was Wolf Creek Pass at 10, 820 feet. Jim was a bit tense as we started the drive. Turned out that there was road repair going on near and at the summit. The traffic was slow and controlled but it seemed that our rig handled the climb very well but our driver and passenger were really tired from the day. We opted Thursday night to just get to know the Lightener Creek Camp. We walked and just vegged. So by Friday morning we were up for some urban adventures. 

      We had breakfast at Pierre’s Bakery. This place is on the corner of Main and 4th in downtown Durango. The food was too good. I had the Crepes with Warmed Fruit in a fruit sauce. Jim had the Eggs Benedict, agreeing that this was one of best ever breakfast. The town was full of galleries, restaurants, antique stores, breweries and vape shops. Just outside is a train ride, rafting, zip lines as well as many REI type stores. High class motels and hotels ring the downtown and today, by 10:00 am most of the parking was impacted. It seems a young town like Moab but was more food focus and not quite the adrenaline push. Durango is in one of the Colorado counties that allows the sale of not only medicinal cannabis but recreational. Counties have the right to choose if they want the shops since Colorado legalized recreational cannabis. Since California will have this option on the ballot, we thought part of urban exploration in Durango might be finding out what that looks like. We looked on line to find out the details of legalizing and what laws were developed in practice. Google has anything you want to know. 

       We found that residents and non-residents can buy up to an ounce of marijuana at a time but a resident is allowed to possess more at a time. You must be 21 and access to the selling area cannot be entered until you ID is checked and everyone’s ID is checked. You are provided a copy of the Retail Marijuana in Colorado Info for Visitors. A salesperson accompanies you into the sales room where all the “retail MJ” is behind glass. The sales person selects after asking you what you want and then places it in a basket. You do not have possession until you have your ID checked again and then pay for the product. Bag is sealed and official paperwork in sealed on. State of Colorado Department of Marijuana Enforcement had a poster on the wall. I had read that the taxes were from 15 to 20% but at the retail level it was more like nearly 100% with $25 having a $20 tax added to the price. Everything must be paid by debit or cash but not credit cards. We were reminded in our googling that since the Federal Government has not legalized marijuana at any level of use so these stores can not use the banking system so they must deal in cash. The laws you are handed as you enter include that the law makes it illegal to use in public in any form including vaping, smoking or eating and, of course, you can be charged with driving while intoxicated. An additional condition put on these retail establishment is that it appears that zoning must also have regulations. We found that they were not obvious, some being in out of the way locations with muted signage.

        Colorado is an interesting model. Marijuana appears to be more regulated and much more heavily taxed than alcohol but a positive side is the amount of revenue it must generate for the state and counties. If it passes, it will be interesting to see how California implements the legalization but it will have three states to learn from, Oregon, Washington and Colorado. Since Colorado was the first, towns such as Durango which had developed into a tourist destination for outdoor sports and wonderful historical downtown added to that by becoming also a place of out of states tourist to enjoy their recreational marijuana. I believe that soon Oregon and Washington state will begin to eat into Colorado recreational Marijuana tourist market. 

         Tonight and for the next four days, Lightener Creek RV park is home. We are surrounded by families looking forward to 4th of July in Durango. It is a very nice park but much less space that the openness of the high desert at the Dunes. The view of the sunrises and sunsets were staggering with their color but this camp offers the friendliness of many of neighbors enjoying hearing and seeing the kids be so excited. Next to us is tiny AirStream, can not be more that 15 feet pulled by a Suburban and inhabited by a mom and dad and 4 kids. Three sleep in the back of the Suburban and the rest in the Camper. All sound happy and mom and dad not too harried. Be well all. 

The Great Sand Dunes

     

Morning Light at San Luis State Park, Colorado

  Today, Wednesday is all about the Great Sand Dunes and the sunrises and sunsets from our camp at the San Luis State Park. San Luis was a park to return to see again with it's high desert and widely spaced camping areas with beautifully designed wind shelters over the picnic tables.

Beautifully designed picnic table shelters 

It sits in the area with a shallow lake fed by the streams that flow from behind and under the dunes. The wind with blows from both the northwest and the southwest works to sculpt the sand and push it toward and into the dunes.

Lovely cloud formation reflecting setting sun

We experienced at different times, the quiet calm and then the strong weather which feed the wind.

The Great Sand Dunes

We visited the dunes which stand many feet high and spread over 30 miles. They constantly change as the wind shifts them. In the summer, the sand can reach temperatures of 160 degrees and in winter, they are snow covered.

Medano River flows around the dunes and finally under to reappear miles to the west

The area stands at 7500 feet and the dunes and mountains rise much higher.

Another sunset over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains